Если задаться вопросом, как повысить урожайность баклажанов (а в недавних статьях мы ознакомились с такой возможностью по клубнике и капусте), то придётся серьёзно потрудиться, ведь это непростая задача. Предки «синенького», а в некоторых случаях и «беленького», овоща происходят из Южной Азии. В Средней полосе и сходных по климату регионах этому тропическому растению не хватает солнечной энергии, даже в тепличных условиях. Ставя перед собой задачу добиться стабильной урожайности баклажанов на огородном участке, необходимо повысить уровень агротехники и учесть все потребности ценного, но такого капризного овоща.

Как повысить урожайность баклажанов

Краткое содержание

  • 1 Как повысить урожайность баклажанов в теплице и открытом грунте
    • 1.1 Подбор сортов баклажанов
    • 1.2 Тепло и свет
    • 1.3 Количество влаги и подкормка удобрениями при выращивании растений
    • 1.4 Забота о корнях овощей
    • 1.5 Стимуляция завязи баклажан для повышения урожая
    • 1.6 Формировка кустов баклажанов
    • 1.7 Защита от вредителей и болезней

Как повысить урожайность баклажанов в теплице и открытом грунте

     Урожайность «синеньких» значительно варьируется в зависимости от сорта и климата. С квадратного метра посадок неприхотливые уличные сорта баклажанов выдают 1-2 кг, мощные сорта и гибриды — в среднем 3-5 кг в открытом грунте и 8-12 кг в закрытом, рекордные 19 кг в отапливаемых теплицах. Будем стремиться к тому, чтобы повысить отдачу со своей скромной дачной плантации, ориентируясь на эти показатели.

Подбор сортов баклажанов

     Для отапливаемых теплиц выгодны высокие сорта и гибриды (отрастающие на 1,5-2 метра и больше) с длительной отдачей. В неотапливаемых теплицах высаживаем среднерослые (0,8-1,5 м) формы — ранние и среднеранние. Отказ от низкорослых сортов в пользу длинноствольных гибридов позволяет полноценно использовать тепличное пространство для повышения общей урожайности. Особенно тщательно нужно отбирать сорта овощей для простых парничков и уличных грядок — невысокие, компактные, самые скороспелые, с дружной отдачей и высокой адаптивностью к температурным стрессам.

Тепло и свет

     Изгиб листьев «лодочкой» — это сигнал, что растению холодно. Чрезмерная жара (свыше +28) тоже опасна: лист подвядает, завязи могут осыпаться. Баклажанам наиболее комфортно при температуре +22 градуса днём и +17 +19 ночью. В яркие, солнечные дни растениям хорошо и при температуре +24; при длительной пасмурной погоде — при +18 +20. Селекционеры вывели относительно холодостойкие формы для открытого грунта дачных участков Подмосковья, Урала и Сибири, Дальнего Востока, но всё равно их лучше высаживать на защищённых от ветра местах, в грядках на биотопливе. Единственные периоды, когда оправдано понижение суточной температуры (до + 15 градусов) — неделя после всходов (когда нужно сдержать рост стебелька и активизировать развитие корней) и закалка перед высадкой в грунт.

     Известно, что для успешной завязи цветок баклажана должен обязательно освещаться солнцем. Затеняющие листья удаляем. Кусты нуждаются в полноценном освещении со всех сторон. Плотность посадки овощей в теплицах — 3-4 шт. /кв. м, в открытом грунте предпочтительнее будет 4-5 шт. Кратковременное притенение организуем только после пересадки.

Как повысить урожайность баклажанов

Количество влаги и подкормка удобрениями при выращивании растений

     Широкие листья растений испаряют много влаги. Полив должен быть достаточным, чтобы обеспечивать постоянную влажность земли. За один раз расходуют по 3 ведра тёплой воды на квадратный метр, в пору налива плодов дозу нужно повысить в полтора раза. Сохранить влагу и обеспечить прикорневое тепло овощам помогает мульчирование соломой.

     Оптимальная влажность воздуха — 60%, но не страшно, если микроклимат будет более сухим, лишь бы корни получали влагу.

     Баклажаны поглощают особенно много азота и фосфора. Повышению урожайности поможет предпосадочная заправка дачной почвы питательной органикой — перепревшим навозом (6-7 литров/кв. м) или сборным компостом (10 литров/кв. м). Помимо поставки азотно-калийного питания, органика делает грунт более рыхлым и при этом влагоёмким (тяжёлые, плотные почвы баклажанам не подходят). Обязательно вносим Суперфосфат — 60-80 г/кв. м.; не будут лишними древесная зола (2 стакана), Сернокислый калий (30 г), Сульфат магния (10 г) или Маг-Бор (20 г). Если органики маловато, то подсыпаем Мочевину — 30-40 г/кв. м.

     Кислые земли участка известкуем с осени до нейтрального показателя (pH 7).

     Сезонные подкормки для баклажана не менее важны, чем заправка почвы. Чтобы повысить урожайность овощей, даём минимум 2-3 удобрительных полива: в фазе активной бутонизации (здесь важнее азот  навоз, помёт, Мочевина) и в начале плодообразования (азот и фосфор). Можно использовать специальные удобрения (Агрикола и т. п.), добавляя к ним Суперфосфат. Полезно провести растениям пару внекорневых подкормок комплексом микроэлементов (обязательно с молибденом и магнием).

Как повысить урожайность баклажанов

Забота о корнях овощей

     Корни баклажанов страдают на участке, сильно загрязнённом пестицидами. У этой культуры вообще чувствительная корневая система, поэтому настоятельно рекомендуется производство рассады без пикирования, каждый саженец в отдельной ёмкости. Накануне перемещения в огородную грядку растения опрыскиваем Эпином Экстра, а после высадки поливаем Корневином, Гуматом калия либо Цирконом.

Стимуляция завязи баклажан для повышения урожая

     Когда кустики начинают цвести, их опрыскиваем Завязью. На начальной стадии роста плодов проводим подкормку Сульфатом калия (1 ст. л. на ведро воды). В прохладную погоду полезна обработка Эпином Экстра.

Формировка кустов баклажанов

  • Крупногабаритные кусты овощей ведём в 2-3 стебля.
  • Убираем пасынки, растущие ниже первой завязи и из земли.
  • В цветочной кисти оставляем только один (сильный) бутон (цветок).
  • Периодически «осветляем» растения, убирая (без фанатизма) затеняющие листья и растущие внутрь куста побеги.
  • Завязавшиеся плодики с нетипично светлой окраской удаляем — толку от них не будет.
  • Защита от вредителей и болезней

         Предотвратить болезни поможет севооборот на огороде — минимум 3 года после всех паслёновых культур. Лучшие предшественники баклажанов — капуста, лук, бобовые, сидераты.

         Защита от увядания и корневых гнилей — Триходерма вериде, лечение — Превикур Энерджи. Может потребоваться обработка от фитофторы.

         Повысить урожайность баклажан на даче поможет своевременное уничтожение насекомых-вредителей. Колорадского жука обираем вручную, тлю и паутинного клеща побеждаем биопрепаратами (Фитоверм). Сложнее всего с тепличной белокрылкой: её пытаемся победить, чередуя опрыскивания Конфиделином и Стожаром.

    Источник: sotkiradosti.ru

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